The road from Villifranca was beautiful but long and hard. The first 15km was along a beautiful river, shaded by chestnut trees, elms, oaks. Little villages every 3km. I’m now in the Galician mountains. All 9th century, i think oldest structures still standing. there is some kind of big money , its evident of the new revival going on. reinforcing the old structures with new modern interiors. i love that spain wants to keep its history, by restoration. The language has already changed to Galega. The climb started around Valcarce, absolutely amazing green rolling hills, that went on forever and so did the walk. It took 12hrs to get to Ocebreiro. This village is literally on top of the mountain, had a population of 50, so they just cater to Pilgrims. The food was famous for the area . Pulpo (octopus over boiled potatoes with paprika) Yum, yum! The huge baked scallops in a yummy tomato sauce. The botillo marinated pork) pretty gross. Galicia stew , gallego ( thick rich vegetables ). And most have the Almond torte. Remember the cacabelos i mentioned in the last post. together we have eaten and drank every Galiacian delicacy possible. I could not have been with better company. George is a winemaker and has a great wine palette, Neil is a teacher of history and was on a quest of research and good eats, Allen was just freakin awesome and Nina decided early on, she was hanging. Smart girl.
The climb kicked my ass, the hostel I’m at was built in 9th century, oldest existing hostel, floors and doors creaked, smelled really musty. Bed was soft and hot shower . Between the 3 boys they carried me all night, I be leave I now have 6 toe blisters , And on both sides of my heals. My feet never touched the ground. Somehow I managed a sunset and a sunrise , serenaded by 2 Italian men, drank a lot of wine and had a blast.
It pains me to leave my new friends, but the pain in my feet is worse. This may be the end of journey.
leighann walks spain 